The first step in unsticking baseball cards that have become stuck together is to determine what might be causing them to stick. Common culprits include moisture damage from exposure to humidity, water, or condensation. Older wax or gum residue on the backs of vintage cards can also polymerize over time and effectively glue cards together. In some cases, cards may have been stored in hot or humid conditions which can weaken the card stock and cause them to adhere.

Once you’ve identified the likely cause of sticking, the next step is preparation. Gather the necessary supplies before attempting to separate cards. You will need a clean, dry work surface located in a warm, dry area. It’s best to work in a room with consistent temperature and low humidity to avoid re-sticking the cards as you work. Other key supplies include warm water, plastic or glassine sheets to separate cards, soft brushes, towels, paper towels and something to gently pry cards apart like plastic grocery bags, playing cards or credit cards to act as levers.

The separation process should start slowly. Examine how the cards are adhered, looking for potential levers points around edges or between photos that may allow initial separation without damaging images or signatures. Gently try inserting a thin lever like a plastic card between two stuck areas and pry up just a bit, trying not to force the issue. Go slowly and be patient, as forcing cards can cause damage. Once a small gap appears, switch to soft brushes or cotton swabs dipped in warm water to tease apart the adhesion points further without direct handling.

It’s best to work from edges inward to fully separate cards without creasing or folding. Periodically wipe away residual stickiness from separated card surfaces with a dry paper or microfiber towel to prevent re-sticking as you work through a stuck pile. Consider soaking particularly stubborn adhesion areas for several minutes before attempting to separate to soften any remaining residue. Be sure cards are completely dry before attempting to flatten or store.

Proper flattening is also important after separation to prevent future curling issues. Place separated cards between weights like heavy books with glassine or plastic sheets between to protect surfaces. Allow to air dry fully before handling or moving the weights. For long-term storage, consider plastics sleeves, toploaders or magnetic holders to protect edges and avoid restacking loose piles of vulnerable cards. Proper drying and protection post-separation is key to keeping the newly liberated cards from becoming adhered once more over time.

As you work methodically through a stack of stuck cards, take breaks when needed to avoid hand fatigue or frustration. Stubborn cases may require repeat soak-and-separate cycles over multiple sessions. With patience and by going slowly, most damaged card piles can be salvaged without further issues. Just avoid forcing, ripping or folding as those actions risk permanent damage. Proper preparation, supplies and technique along with regular breaks will yield the best results for unsticking treasured baseball cards over time. With care, patience and the right approach, you can rescue cards that were once deemed doomed to remain forever fused together. Let me know if you have any other questions!

The first step when unsticking old baseball cards is to examine the cards closely to determine what kind of damage or stuckness has occurred. Over time, adhesives can break down on the cardboard backing of cards, causing them to become stuck together. Moisture exposure is also a common cause of cards adhering. Take a close look at any stuck areas to see if you can tell what type of sticking is present – light adhesivce, moisture damage, etc. This will help inform your approach.

Once you’ve examined the damage, your next step will be to safely separate the cards without causing further damage. The best tools for this are thin plastic cards or metal spatulas that are gradually inserted between cards to break the bond without tearing. Go very slowly and carefully at the edges, using your fingernail or a blunt tool if possible. Pulling too hard runs the risk of tearing card surfaces or image areas. Patience is key here.

If the cards are very stubbornly stuck, you may need to soften the adhesive bond before trying to separate. The safest method is placing the cards in a sealed plastic bag or container with several dry silica gel packs overnight. The silica gel will absorb excess moisture from the cards and surroundings that has caused them to remain stuck. This slow, controlled drying can make the bonding weaker and easier to break apart the next day.

Another option if silica drying doesn’t work is applying a very small amount of mineral oil, rubber cement thinner or acetone dropwise between stubborn areas with a cotton swab or small paintbrush. Use just enough to soak in but not saturate the cards. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes before carefully trying to separate again. Go slowly to avoid tearing. Mineral oil is the gentlest alternative since it won’t further damage cardboard over time like solvents can.

Once the cards have been fully separated, it’s time for cleanup and flattening. Any remaining residue on surfaces can be wiped away with a soft cloth slightly dampened with the mineral oil, rubber cement thinner or acetone – test on a less valuable card first. Then it’s important to flatten the cards immediately to prevent new warping or moisture damage.

Ideally, stack the cards between thin boards with small brads or binding posts spaced every 2-3 inches along the edges to evenly distribute pressure. Leave under weight (heavy books work well) for at least 2 weeks, checking and adjusting placement every few days. Make sure the storage area remains at low humidity levels below 50% to prevent further sticking issues long term. Properly flattening now can restore nice condition to cards that may have become damaged over decades sticky in albums.

The final important step is improved long-term storage. Acid-free archival polypropylene sheets, toploaders or magnetic holders in a temperature controlled environment below 70°F and 50% humidity are ideal. This prevents moisture fluctuations that cause cardboard warping. Never store cards in direct sunlight, which can speed up photo fading over decades. With proper care and swift attention after unsticking, vintage baseball cards can look almost as good as the day they were pulled from packs with just some TLC along the way. Let me know if you have any other questions!

The first important thing to understand is that once baseball cards have stuck together, you will likely never separate them perfectly without causing some damage. Therefore, the goal should be minimizing further damage rather than futilely trying to pry them apart perfectly. Sticking occurs due to the paper breaking down over time from environmental factors like humidity, heat, light exposure, etc. and becoming sticky. This often happens along the edges and corners first before spreading.

To start, examine the stack of stuck cards carefully without moving them yet. Look for any cards that are not as stuck and may be separable without assistance. Gently try sliding a few of these out to the side as practice test cards. You want to do this part very slowly and carefully to avoid forcing and tearing the paper fibers. Set these aside for later inspection.

For the bulk of the stuck stack, you need to rehydrate the paper fibers to make them supple enough to separate gently rather than tear. Place the stack card-side down directly into a shallow baking pan or other non-metallic container. Slowly add just enough distilled or boiled (cooled) water to come about halfway up the side of the stack without soaking the tops of the cards. You can also use a humidifying tray or container. Let this sit undisturbed for 12-24 hours to allow thorough wetting.

After the soak time, check the water level and top it off if needed, then let sit for another 6-12 hours. The goal is to hydrate fully without risk of warping from over-soaking. Gradually wicking water in allows it to penetrate deeply and evenly. At this stage, don’t even attempt separation yet – more soak time is needed.

You want the paper to be pliable but not soggy when you start to separate them. Give the stack a total soak time of 48-72 hours, checking and topping off the water every 12 hours or so, before proceeding. Quick or uneven soaking can cause tearing or creasing. With patience you minimize risk of further damage.

When the soak is complete, gently slide the saturated stack out of the water container card-side up onto a dry, non-abrasive surface like a clean towel or blanket. Starting from the top, use your fingernails positioned along the edge to try sliding a card away from the stack in a single slow, constant motion without jerking or stopping.

Go very gradually and don’t force it if resistance is met, to avoid tearing. Have dry paper towels handy. As cards separate, wipe and blot them dry one by one before laying them flat aside to dry fully. The goal is to dry them before re-sticking occurs as the paper fibers re-solidify. Slight nicks or creases may form despite care – this is better than shredding whole sections by forcing separation. Repeat for each card, soaking, sliding and drying one at a time from top to bottom.

As cards are removed, keep rotating the process so lower layers have time exposed at the top to soak further before attempting separation. Some tiny paper particles may come off in the water or on card surfaces – these can be carefully wiped away after full drying is complete to avoid detracting from card condition down the line.

Monitor for mold growth during long soak times – add a teaspoon of white vinegar to the water as a preservative if needed. Once fully dry with no residual wet stickiness, use protective sleeves for storage to prevent recurrence of sticking issues in the future. Handle carefully from here on out to preserve condition. With patience, the process allows stuck cards to be successfully separated while minimizing further damage to the fragile paper. Collection care requires diligence.