There are a few key factors to consider when determining if and when you should get your baseball cards professionally graded. The main reason to grade cards is to authentic them and establish a verified grade of their condition, which can significantly impact their value. The cost of grading means it only makes financial sense for high-value cards or cards you intend to eventually sell.
In terms of which cards are appropriate for grading, the best candidates fall into two main categories – vintage cards from the 1950s and earlier, as well as modern rookie cards of star players. Vintage cards from the early days of Topps, Bowman, and other classic sets are highly collectible due to their age and relative scarcity. Even relatively common cards from sets like the 1952 Topps can be worth grading if they grade high, as perfection is extremely rare for 70 year old cardboard. For modern cards, the rookies of star players like Mike Trout, Manny Machado, Shohei Ohtani and others are often worth submitting if they are in pristine condition, as a top grade can multiply their market value many times over.
Beyond that, grading also makes sense for autographed cards, rare parallel/refractor printings, and high-numbered serially numbered cards. Autographs are best authenticated to prove they are legitimate, while rare parallel printings hold additional value with a verified high grade. Numbered cards like serially numbered rookies and relic parallels are also good candidates if they were carefully stored and maintained in top condition. In many cases, a 9 or 10 grade can increase the value of these types of specialty cards exponentially compared to raw, ungraded equivalents.
Conversely, there is usually no need to grade common base cards, insert cards of non-star players, or cards in played/damaged condition. While anything is possible in the hobby, realistically a graded 2 or 3 condition card is unlikely to ever be worth more than a few dollars at best. The grading fee usually exceeds any potential future added value in a sale. Also, it’s generally not cost-effective to grade sets you are keeping for a personal collection long-term rather than resale value. The added cost does not provide much direct benefit to displaying graded cards at home versus raw ones kept safely in sleeves and toploaders.
When evaluating a card’s potential value if graded, there are a few key things to consider. First is the player – rookies or stars will outperform most others. Also assess the specific card – rare parallel printings have more upside than typical base cards. Consider the card’s condition – gem mint or near mint bring far higher returns. You should also research recent auction sales comparisons of graded vs. ungraded examples to get a sense of potential price impact. With vintage especially, a high grade can increase value many multiples. Account for the grading fees, which typically range from $10-$50 depending on the tier of service used.
In terms of when to actually submit cards to be graded, the best timing usually involves holding off until cards have had a chance to appreciate in value over a period of years after their initial release. Modern rookie cards in particular need time for young players’ careers to develop to reach their full investment potential. But waiting too long could result in degradation of the card surface that impacts its achievable grade. Most experts recommend a wait of at least 5-10 years post-release for modern cards before considering grading, unless an exceptionally high grade can be confidently achieved sooner. For vintage, waiting is less critical as their value is historically driven, but grading earlier is still preferable before age causes damage.
In summary – focus grading on high-value vintage, especially if high grades are attainable, as well as star player modern rookies likely to net a top price-multiplying grade after their careers have had time to blossom. Be sure to weigh grading costs versus predicted return on any potential eventual resale. Common or damaged cards seldom see profits after fees are considered. With patience and selectivity, third-party grading can significantly boost collectible baseball cards’ worth for both investors and enthusiasts alike. But it’s an added cost that merits selective use only for examples where value is clearly enhanced by authenticity and verified condition.
