Grading baseball cards is important if you want to determine the value and condition of your collection. There are several leading third-party grading companies that use a 0-10 scale to grade cards, with 10 being gem mint and 0 being poor condition. The main companies are Beckett, PSA, and SGC.

Before submitting any cards to be professionally graded, you’ll want to do a self-assessment first. Take the card out of its protective sleeve or toploader and examine it closely under good lighting. Start by looking at the centering. Is it evenly centered front to back and left to right, or is there whitening around the edges? Poor centering can significantly decrease a grade. Then move on to the corners. Are they rounded, chipped, or do they have creases? Dark/rounded corners are better than ones with wear. After that, inspect the edges. Look for any wrinkling, rounding, or whitening on the edge. Crisp, sharp edges are ideal. Examine the surface for any scratches, marks, or imperfections on the front or back. A flawless surface without ANY marks is needed for top grades.

Once you’ve analyzed the card’s condition factors, you can start to estimate a self-grade. Here’s a quick breakdown of the PSA grading scale:

PSA 10 (Gem Mint): As close to flawless as a card can get. Perfectly centered front and back. Razor sharp edges and corners. No surface blemishes at all under scrutiny.

PSA 9 (Mint): Very close to a PSA 10. Might have one slight flaw like off-centering or a pinhead mark. Must be extremely clean overall.

PSA 8 (Near Mint-Mint): Light play/wear. May have minor edge or corner wear. Could have a few flecks or pinhead marks. Centering should still be reasonably tight.

PSA 7 (Near Mint): Clear wear visible upon close inspection. Minor scuffing, scratching or edge nicks possible. Centering likely off slightly or corners slightly rounded.

PSA 6 (Very Good-Excellent): definitie noticeable wear. Dulls edges or rounding. Light scuffing/scratching or flecks visible. Centering likely poor.

PSA 5 (Good): Clearly used condition. Dull, rounded edges. Scuffing/marks cover >10% of surface. Likely bent corners. Poor centering.

PSA 4 (About Good): Heavily played. Significant scuffing/marks cover surface. Bent edges and corners common. Can have creases or tears.

PSA 3 (Fair): Heavy surface problems/wear. Corners often damaged creases. Likely discoloration on back. Centering poor.

PSA 2 (Poor): Severely worn/damaged. Corners maybe completely rounded off. Heavily discolored back. Large creases possible.

PSA 1 (Very Poor): Generally ungradeable. High amount of damage like creases, tears or stains. Card held together by condition, not quality.

Once you have the card self-graded, you can decide if it’s worth paying to have it professionally graded. PSA charges start at around $20 per card depending on tier selected. They guarantee the grade for life if you choose to resell. Beckett is slightly less. At PSA 10 a card could gain thousands in value, at an 8 it may only gain a few dollars over raw. Weigh costs versus potential profitability.

If submitting, use acid-free holders and follow guidelines closely for submission. PSA/BGS will reholder in acid-free sleeves upon return as another buyer safeguard. Cards submitted in low grades like 2-5 often are not worth grading costs versus potential upside. Hold onto those cards raw in a safe place. Higher grades like 7+ are better candidates for professional third-party certification.

Whether self-grading or using professionals, properly assessing condition is crucial for baseball cards. Take your time inspecting under bright lighting from all angles. Consult the detailed standards for each tier online for reference. With practice you can estimate grades reliably and identify your collection’s best “hits” for resale or protection in certified holders long-term. Grading takes the guesswork out of value by establishing an objective condition analysis.