Grading the condition and quality of baseball cards is an important process for determining the value of a card. One of the largest and most iconic brands in the hobby is Topps, who has produced cards since the 1950s. Whether you have cards from the classic era of the 50s/60s or more modern issues, learning how to properly grade Topps cards takes some knowledge of the factors collectors look at.
The main services that officially grade and encapsulate baseball cards are PSA, BGS, SGC and HGA. They use a 1-10 point numerical scale to indicate a card’s state of preservation. To get a card professionally graded, you would send it to one of these companies and pay a fee. For most collectors just looking to buy or sell on a smaller scale, you can do general self-grading to agree on a condition with a buyer or seller.
For Topps cards, one of the first things to examine is the centering. Is the image of the player evenly centered within the borders of the card front? Off-center cards grade lower. Edges are also important – are they straight cut or are there nicks, dings or whitening? Corners getting rounded or creased also detract from grade. The surface/paper quality matters too for signs of wear like scratches, stains or fingerprints. Examine under bright light.
Next, review the back of the card. Is the printing crisp and clear or faded? Look for soft corners, wrinkles, creases or edge wear here too. Also check if stats/text are complete and legible or trimmed off at all. Card stock thickness varies by era – were thinner stocks from the 50s prone to damage while 80s/90s issues held up better? Consider all these front and back traits together for an initial raw grade assessment.
Additional factors can then fine-tune the grade. Is the card graded as “mint” if it looks uncircised fresh from the pack? Or “near mint” with only the lightest signs of handling? Then move down grades for “excellent”, “very good”, “good”, “fair” and “poor” for heavily worn cards. Auto/patches/relic cards must have intact, unflawed autographs too. Consider any other defects like discoloration/stains that impact the final grade.
Topps products are iconic but also very common, so small imperfections can have an outsized effect on graded value. Mint 1960s rookie cards that would’ve been cheap commons originally can be worth thousands of dollars today in high grades recognized by grading services. Take your time examining cards closely under bright light before assigning a self-grade, especially for the most expensive vintage issues. Getting cards officially graded is worth it if a true numerical grade is needed. But with attention to these criteria, collectors can self-grade Topps cards well enough for basic buy/sell discussions. Knowledge of grades raises the clarity of communication when trading or pricing cards in the hobby.
