Author Archives: Kevin Brexit

HOW DO I SELL MY BASEBALL CARDS FOR THE MOST MONEY

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To start, make sure the cards are in the best condition possible. Take them out of sleeves or plastic cases and carefully inspect each one. Look for any creases, wrinkles or damage to the corners or edges. These flaws bring the value down significantly. You’ll want to identify the condition of each card using the standard scale of Near Mint, Mint, Very Good, Good or Poor. Taking the time to properly grade your cards will help convince buyers that you are accurately representing the condition.

Once you’ve graded the cards, your next step is to group them by player, year and set. Sorting this way allows potential buyers to more easily find cards they may be looking for. It’s ideal to sell cards individually when possible rather than in bulk lots, as individual rare or valuable cards can sell for much more money separated out. But common duplicate cards can be bundled together.

When photographing cards for an online sale, be sure pictures are clear and focus on the front and back of each. Snap shots in bright, natural lighting without any glare or shadows for best results. Clear photos allow buyers to inspect for imperfections from afar. You may also want to take additional close-up shots of any problem areas like edges or corners.

Pricing your baseball cards accurately is important. Don’t overvalue common cards but also don’t undersell valuable vintage rookies or autographs. Research recently sold listings on eBay to get a sense of current market prices for each player and year. Also check price guide websites or books for baseline values. You may list some pricier individual cards or sets on eBay for more money through an auction. But consider setting fixed prices on common cards and lots to sell them more quickly in large numbers.

When listing online sales, provide full details on player, year, brand/set, card number and condition. Mention any identifying marks, autographs or noteworthy variations. Good photography and detailed descriptions give buyers confidence. For larger collections, include inventory lists so interested parties have a complete overview.

For increased visibility, list cards on multiple platforms like eBay, Twitter, Instagram, Facebook Marketplace and local buy/sell groups. Cross-posting expands your potential audience. You can also advertise in hobby shop newsletters or consign high-end cards to reputable auction houses. Selling in-person through local card shows gives buyers a chance to inspect items first-hand before purchasing.

Package shipments securely in rigid card holders, toploaders or cardboard between stiff cardboard or foam. Include insurance for valuable mailings. Clearly label the contents and ship as soon as payment clears to maintain positive customer experiences. Be responsive to questions from interested buyers. Sell at fair prices with excellent service to build a positive seller reputation over time for maximum profits from future sales. With some effort focusing on presentation, research and customer service, you can maximize the money earned from your baseball card collection.

WHERE TO BUY VINTAGE BASEBALL CARDS

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Local Card/Collectibles Shops – Many cities and towns still have local collectibles shops that specialize in trading cards, including vintage baseball cards. Shopping locally allows you to physically inspect cards before purchasing. Selection may be limited compared to larger retailers. Be sure to call ahead or check websites to see what vintage inventory they have.

Online Card Shops/Marketplaces – Websites like eBay, COMC, and Steel City Collectibles are great places to find vintage baseball cards online. Selection is massive but you can’t physically inspect cards before buying. Reputable sellers on eBay often provide high-quality photos so you know exactly what you’re getting. Just beware of poorly described or photographed listings. COMC allows you to buy cards not currently available and they photo grade each one. Steel City specializes in vintage and has a team of authenticators.

Card Shows – Regional and national card shows bring together hundreds of individual vendors under one roof, allowing you to inspect vintage cards from many sellers in one location. This is a fun, social experience for serious collectors. Competition for rare cards can be fierce and prices may be higher than online due to negotiating in person. Check sportscardshows.com for upcoming events.

Auction Houses – Reputable auction houses like Heritage, SCP, and Lelands regularly sell rare/high-value vintage baseball cards through online-only or in-person auctions. This offers a secure transaction environment but you’ll pay a buyer’s premium on top of your winning bid. Carefully research estimated values and carefully consider maximum bids. Photos and grades are generally very accurate.

Private Collectors/Groups – Networking within your local collecting community and on niche message boards/Facebook groups can connect you with individuals selling personal collections or group breaks of unopened vintage packs/boxes. This is a personalized experience but selection will vary wildly and you have no buyer protections. Always meet in a public place, inspect items thoroughly, and pay securely.

When shopping for vintage baseball cards, it’s important to consider several factors to help ensure a smooth transaction and a quality product:

Seller’s reputation/feedback: Only buy from established sellers with a long history of positive reviews. Newer/anonymous sellers should be avoided, especially for expensive items.

Pricing details: Understand listed prices, possible best offer options, additional taxes/fees, and shipping costs upfront to avoid surprises. Compare to recent sold prices on the same platform/other sites.

Authenticity guarantees: Reputable sources will clearly state their policies on authenticity and counterfeits. Consider having valuable cards professionally graded to prevent any “fake” claims after purchase.

Condition details: Heavily played/damaged cards sell for far less. Know the exact condition being described, including centeredness and corners. Ask for additional photos of issues.

Returns/refunds: Know the return window and refund process in case the item received doesn’t match the listing. Consider buying graded cards which can’t be returned as easily.

Payment methods: Only pay using a secure method like PayPal Goods & Services for protection against non-shipment. Don’t pay by uninsured “friends & family” unless you know/trust the specific seller.

Doing thorough research, comparing multiple selling options, thoroughly inspecting detailed listings, and buying carefully can help you find the right vintage baseball cards from a reputable source. Let me know if you need any other buying tips!

ARE POST CEREAL BASEBALL CARDS WORTH ANYTHING

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Post Cereal baseball cards are collectible items that were included in boxes of cereal starting in the late 1880s and continuing through the 1980s. The value of individual Post cards can vary quite a bit depending on the player, the year, the condition of the card, and other factors. In general here is what we know about the value of Post cereal baseball cards:

One of the earliest known issues of Post Cereal baseball cards came in 1887, when sets featuring players from the National League and American Association were inserted into boxes of Post’s Grape-Nuts cereal. These early sets are considered the first mass-produced sports cards. Given their rarity and historical significance as the first baseball cards, complete 1887 Post sets in near-mint condition could be valued anywhere from $100,000 to well over $1 million today if they came on the market. Finding these original 1887 sets in collectible condition after over 130 years would be extremely unlikely.

Throughout the late 1880s and 1890s, Post continued to include baseball cards featuring current players in their cereal boxes. Sets from this era often featured players like Cap Anson, Buck Ewing, and Ed Delahanty. Individual cards from 1895-1899 in very good to near-mint condition can sell for $500-$1,500 depending on the player featured. More common players may go for $100-500, while a true star could reach $2,000-$5,000. Again, finding examples from this period that have survived 135+ years in high grade would be virtually unheard of.

In the early 20th century as baseball became more popular, Post increased production of their classic paper baseball cards. Sets from 1910-1939 are generally quite plentiful on the market today in circulated/well-worn condition. For common players from this era, a single card might fetch $5-20, maybe $50-100 for a star. In extremely nice “high-grade” condition of very fine or better, values jump significantly higher – a 1909 Honus Wagner is worth over $2 million while a 1937 Lou Gehrig recently sold for $79,500. So condition is everything.

The golden age of baseball cards arrived in the 1940s-1950s as the designs modernized and colors were added to cards. Stars like Ted Williams, Stan Musial, Jackie Robinson and Mickey Mantle became hugely popular on Post’s cards from this era. In poor/acceptable condition, a single 1940s-50s Post card might sell for $1-5 but could reach $50-100 for a true star. In high grades such as near-mint to mint condition, common players jump to $10-25 while legends could reach thousands – a 1952 Mantle sold for $144,000 at auction.

Production of Post cards declined some in the late 1950s and 1960s compared to the previous decades. However stars from this era like Hank Aaron, Willie Mays and Sandy Koufax remain popular. Their common Post cards sell for $3-15 depending on condition, perhaps topping at $50-100 for a true gem mint example. Rarer short print variations or error cards from the 1960s could be worth significantly more to serious collectors.

In the 1970s and 1980s, Post cereal maintained their tradition by continuing to include baseball cards in boxes, though the scarcity increased. Stars of that era like Nolan Ryan, George Brett and Mike Schmidt feature on these cards. Commons are just $1-5 today but a super high grade card could approach $20-50. The final 1980s/early ’90s Post issues remain quite affordable with even stars priced under $10 normally. Variation cards remain the most valuable from the end of the Post Card era.

While not as well-known as other vintage brands today, Post Cereal cards maintained an iconic presence in the cereal aisle for over 100 years and were instrumental in the growth of baseball card collecting as a popular hobby. Condition is critically important to value – even common 1890s-1940s players can be worth hundreds to over a thousand for true gems. The rarest examples from the earliest 1887 issues would command museum-level prices into the hundreds of thousands. With enough digging, hidden treasures could still remain in attics that could pay off somebody’s retirement many times over. Overall the long history of Post cards continues to attract a strong collector following across multiple generations.

WHO BUYS BASEBALL CARDS LOCALLY

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There are a few different types of businesses and individuals that may buy baseball cards locally in any given area. Some of the most common places to potentially sell cards in person include:

Local card and collectible shops – Many cities, towns, and larger communities will have at least one dedicated shop that deals in trading cards, collectibles, sports memorabilia, and other niche items. These stores are usually owned and operated by people with a strong passion for and knowledge of the hobby. They will buy collections, singles, and lots directly from consumers looking to sell. Prices paid will vary depending on supply/demand, condition, and overall value or “grade” of the cards, but local shops provide a reliable bricks-and-mortar destination for in-person sales.

Sport card conventions/shows – Periodically throughout the year, larger collectibles expos and conventions come to different areas showcasing vendors from around the region and country. These events, which may be held in hotels, convention centers, or other public facilities, are a venue where individuals can set up tables or booths to buy, sell, and trade various collectibles including sports cards. Unlike a store, the buyers at shows can vary drastically in terms of seriousness, budgets, and focus within the hobby. For larger or valuable collections, conventions expand selling opportunities beyond local shops.

Online/mail order buyers – While not technically local, there are professional sports card graders, dealers, and other buyers who will purchase collections solely through online listings, phone/email correspondence, and shipping. Websites like eBay and dedicated trading/sales platforms allow sellers to reach a national or even international audience of interested parties. The tradeoff is losing the benefit of face-to-face interactions and immediacy of an in-person transaction, but remote buyers can still provide reasonable demand and price options for collections.

Other local collectors – Apart from dedicated businesses, the largest potential pool of local sports card buyers actually consists of avid collectors and enthusiasts within any given community. Whether connecting through local hobby groups on Facebook, at parks/ballfields, or by word of mouth, many collectors are constantly looking to expand their collections, “fill holes,” or assemble new teams/players. Transactions between collectors versus commercial buyers will likely be by private sale without taxes or fees involved. Condition, research, and trust are especially important when dealing with other individuals face-to-face.

While demand and interest in sports collectibles fluctuates over time, in most cities or regions of sufficient population size, many of the above potential sports card buyers will be present and active locally on some level. The key is doing research to identify which combination makes the most sense for an individual’s collection, timelines, and overall selling goals. Larger, older collections may utilize multiple concurrent selling options for best results. Quality, condition, player/set attributes, and sheer volume will all factor directly into potential sale prices as well from different local and national buyers for sports cards. With diligence and connectivity to the current collecting community, selling cards on a smaller scale close to home is very achievable.

Local card shops, conventions/shows, online/mail buyers, and fellow enthusiast collectors should all be considered as potential destinations for selling baseball or other sport cards within any given geographic region. Smart selling requires matching individual collections to the appropriate buyers based on needs, preferences, industry knowledge, and marketplace conditions near and far. While profits may vary, connecting with the right local sports card purchasers offers reliable monetization opportunities right in one’s own backyard.

ARE 1990 TOPPS BASEBALL CARDS WORTH ANYTHING

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The 1990 Topps baseball card set is considered the beginning of the modern card era after a hiatus in the late 1980s when Topps was the sole manufacturer. While not as valuable as some older vintage sets, 1990 Topps cards can still hold value for collectors depending on the player, condition of the card, and particular variations.

To determine if 1990 Topps cards are worth anything, it’s important to consider several factors such as the specific players featured, the scarcity or chase cards in the set, and the condition and grade of individual cards. The 1990 set contains 792 total cards including minor leaguers, managers, and team cards. Some of the rookie cards and stars from that year have maintained or increased in value over the past 30 years.

One of the most valuable rookie cards from the 1990 Topps set is Chipper Jones’ card. As a future Hall of Famer who spent his entire 19-year career with the Atlanta Braves, Chipper Jones is one of the biggest stars to come out of the 1990s. His rookie card remains one of the most sought after from that year’s release. In near mint to mint condition, graded PSA 8 or higher, Chipper Jones’ 1990 Topps rookie card can fetch prices ranging from $100-$300. well-centered examples in mint condition with a PSA grade of 9 or 10 can sell for $500 or more.

Another star rookie from 1990 with a valuable card is Gregg Jefferies of the New York Mets. Jefferies showed promise early in his career and his card was one of the more popular rookie cards in 1990 packs. Today, a PSA 8 or 9 graded example of Jefferies’ 1990 Topps rookie in good condition can sell for $50-$100. Higher graded mint examples with a PSA 10 pop just 250 copies and can sell for $200 or more.

Superstar cards of hall of famers and all-time greats like Cal Ripken Jr., Wade Boggs, Nolan Ryan, Rickey Henderson, and Kirby Puckett also command good values from the 1990 Topps set depending on condition. Highly graded versions of their base cards in PSA 9-10 can sell for $75-$150 each. Memorabilia or autograph parallel inserts of these legends are even more valuable, often selling for hundreds of dollars or more.

Beyond rookie cards and stars, there are also a handful of key short printed and error cards in the 1990 Topps set that command premium prices. The Frank Thomas SP card was one of the most sought after inserts in the base set. Numbered to only 50 copies, a PSA 10 gem mint example of Thomas’ SP card recently sold at auction for over $3,000. Another short print coveted by collectors is Bo Jackson’s card printed on “Gum” stock instead of the standard cardboard. Even well-worn examples sell for $200+.

The 1990 Topps set featured many stars in their baseball primes like Barry Bonds, Mark McGwire, Roger Clemens, and Kenny Lofton. High graded vintage cards of players during some of their best statistical seasons retain collector interest and moderate values as well. Most PSA/BGS 9+ graded examples from Hall of Famers and star players typically sell in the $50-$150 range based on player, condition, and parallel variation.

Of course, like any older sports card set, the value of individual 1990 Topps cards is largely dependent on their state of preservation over 30 years. Heavily played examples in Poor-Fair condition typically have very little monetary value aside from complete set builders. But Mint quality specimens carefully stored and protected since the late 80s/early 90s tend to hold and increase in worth due to their scarcity at the top-end grades over time.

While the 1990 Topps baseball card release as a whole may not reach the net worth of some predecessors predating the late 80s boom, there are still quite a few individual cards and rookie gems within the set that carry valuable collectors prices today – especially when professionally graded and well-preserved. Rookies of future stars Chipper Jones and Gregg Jefferies along with inserts, errors, and short prints remain the primary drivers of value. But Hall of Famer cards and stars from their primes can still hold modest collector appeal as well depending on condition. After 30 years, 1990 Topps endures as an historically important set bridging the transition to the modern card era – with demonstrated values proven for recognized key rookie and star rookie cards.

HOW MUCH IS 1000 BASEBALL CARDS WORTH

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The value of 1000 baseball cards can vary widely depending on many factors. Some key things that will impact the potential worth include the player, year, condition, rarity, level of the player, and more. Without knowing any specifics about the particular 1000 cards in question, it’s difficult to give an exact dollar amount for their collective value. We can look at some general guidelines and averages to provide a reasonable range estimate.

One of the biggest determinants of value is the condition or grade of each individual card. The condition, from worst to best, is usually ranked as poor, fair, good, very good, near mint, and mint. Cards graded as mint or near mint will undoubtedly be worth the most. Unfortunately, if the 1000 cards in question are mainly in poor or fair condition, their collective value would likely be fairly minimal. If even 100-200 cards grade as near mint or better, that could significantly increase the overall worth.

Another huge factor is the players featured on the cards. Cards featuring major stars from throughout baseball history that had lengthy careers and achieved statistical or award milestones will hold the most value. Examples would include cards of players like Babe Ruth, Hank Aaron, Willie Mays, Mickey Mantle, Nolan Ryan, etc. Especially desirable would be high-grade rookie cards of all-time greats. Conversely, cards of less prominent players that had short careers may have little to no monetary value, even in top condition. Without knowing the specific players, it’s impossible to gauge how many premium content cards are included in the lot.

The year and set the cards are from also plays an important role in valuation. Generally speaking, the older the card, the more desirable and valuable it will be to collectors—within reason. For example, cards from the 1950s and earlier would undoubtedly hold more appeal than returns from the 1990s or later in most cases. Key rookie cards or early career appearances that were the first or among the earliest issued for particular players move the needle even more. Condition is still paramount, as an elite card from 1910 could still be nearly worthless if poorly preserved. Again, without details on production years, it’s hard to evaluate this component of value for the baseball cards in question.

Beyond the individual card attributes, there are several other considerations that cloud a direct price estimate. For starters, valuation is often based on what someone is actually willing to pay through an open market sale between knowledgeable and interested buyers and sellers. With any collectibles, what one person finds a card “worth” versus its real sale price can differ. Factors like current pop culture nostalgia levels or recent news involving specific players may also impact demand and pricing at any given time to some degree. Modern print runs were exponentially higher beginning in the late ‘80s and ‘90s compared to earlier years of the hobby. As a result, there is more supply of certain memorabilia out there now to potentially depress values in the long run compared to true vintage rarities.

Taking all of these variables into account, here is a reasonable value range we could speculate for the lot of 1000 baseball cards without any player, year, set, or condition specifics provided:

At the very bottom end, if the majority of cards are predominantly 1990s+ production in worn, poor condition of mostly non-star players, the entire group together may only fetch $50-$100 total from a casual buyer. This type of collection would really only hold value to someone hoping a few discounted hidden gems turn up.

In an average, realistic case where the cards cover a variety of years from the 1950s onwards and include a mix of highly-produced modern printings alongside some older production but in generally play-used condition across the board, the lot might sell in the range of $200-$500.

At the higher end, if inspection revealed the cards heavily weighted from the pre-1980s Golden Era in VG-MT condition or better overall and included a premium roster of stars, especially with key valuable rookie cards, a very motivated collector could pay between $500-$1000 total for the 1000 card package sight unseen.

While it’s impossible to attach an exact price tag, we could reasonably expect 1000 typical baseball cards in unknown condition to trade hands for $50-$1000 collectively depending on the specific attributes—with the sweet spot likely falling somewhere in the $200-$500 range. Condition, players, and era heavily drives value. With refine details, a more accurate appraisal could be made. But hopefully this longer breakdown provides useful context around the variable factors at play.

HOW TO SHIP A SET OF BASEBALL CARDS

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To ship a set of baseball cards safely and ensure they arrive in good condition, there are several key things you need to do. First, you’ll need to carefully package the cards to protect them from any potential damage during transit. I’d recommend using a rigid box that is specifically designed for shipping collectible cards or other memorabilia. Avoid using paper envelopes, regular cardboard boxes, or anything not rigid that could potentially bend or crush under pressure.

Once you have your rigid box, you’ll need to pad the inside walls and bottom lining with bubble wrap, foam peanuts, shredded paper, or another soft packing material to cushion the cards. Be sure to use enough padding so that no hard surfaces are directly touching the box walls. You can either lay down a single layer of padding material, or create “walls” all around to section off the area where the cards will sit. Make sure this area in the center of the box is well protected on all sides.

To package the actual set of cards, you have a few different options. You can leave them inserted in the binder or sheets they are currently stored in, as long as you pad that with extra bubble wrap or packing paper inside the box for protection. Or, you can carefully remove each individual card and place them into penny sleeves or cardboard sheets to keep the surfaces from directly touching each other. Line these card sheets up neatly inside the padded box area.

Add extra padding above, below, and around the cards using wadded packing paper, bubble wrap, air pillows, or foam peanuts. The goal is to minimize any movement or rattling of the cards inside during transit. Once fully surrounded and embedded in protective padding material, you can close up the box flaps and secure with heavy duty tape completely around all the seams and edges. Be meticulous with sealing to prevent any contents from falling out during shipping.

Now it’s time to address the box exterior. First, in permanent marker on the outside of the box, clearly print the return and destination addresses – this is critical in case any labels fall off. Also note that baseball cards or trading cards are inside, as this extra context can help the shipper handle with extra care. Apply shipping labels from your postage provider to all main surfaces of the box.

In addition to labels, I highly recommend using clear packing tape around all the edges, seams and surfaces of the box to waterproof and further reinforce it in case of rain or other elements during shipment. The more securely sealed the box is on the outside, the less risk of damage to the contents. Consider adding “Fragile,” “This Side Up,” and other precautionary markings in bold print for visibility.

When selecting your shipping carrier, I’d avoid any standard ground parcel carriers and instead opt for either USPS Priority Mail or a premium carrier like FedEx or UPS that offers tracking and insurance. They tend to handle packages more carefully. You’ll want to purchase the maximum insurance available for the declared value of the cards. Ask the carrier for a delivery signature requirement as well to ensure the package isn’t just left unattended.

Timing the shipment so it avoids potential delays over weekends or holidays can also help. Communicate the estimated delivery date with the recipient. And don’t forget to save copies of any receipts, tracking numbers, value declarations, etc. in case any issues do arise along the way that need resolution with the carrier. Following all these steps should give your set of baseball cards the safest, most secure packaging and transit possible to their destination! Let me know if you need any clarification or have additional questions.

HOW TO FIX CORNERS ON BASEBALL CARDS

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Baseball card corners getting damaged is a very common issue, whether it happens over time from normal wear and tear or accidentally getting bent or folded. Thankfully, there are some effective methods you can use to repair damaged corners on baseball cards and restore them to like-new condition.

The first step is to determine the type and severity of damage. Slightly bent or creased corners can often be fixed with some gentle finger or tool pressure, while more severe bends, creases or tears may require other techniques. Always examine the card closely under bright light before attempting repairs.

For minor bends, start by laying the card flat on a smooth, stable work surface. Using very light finger pressure, slowly and gently bend the creased area in the opposite direction until it lays flat again. Go slowly to avoid tearing the card stock. An alternative is to use a wooden or plastic clothes iron set on its lowest heat setting and gently press the crease with light pressure from the iron.

More severe creases may require the addition of a humidifier. Add some water to a humidifying device like a cool mist humidifier and run it until the air is noticeably more humid. Carefully place the damaged card in the humid air for 5-10 minutes. The moisture will soften the paper fibers and make the crease or bend easier to manipulate back into shape without tearing. Then slowly and gently bend or press the damaged area back into its original position.

For deep creases, folds or tears, specialized card repair supplies may be needed. Corner punch pliers can carefully punch out the damaged area and replace it with a new, undamaged piece of matching card stock. Take care to punch at the exact corner points for a seamless repair. Archival-safe adhesive like acid-free white glue can be used to adhere the replacement piece. Tape is not recommended as it can damage over time.

Corners that are separating from the rest of the card or have chunks missing require delicate reconstruction. Small tabs of matching card stock can be glued underneath for support before gluing the corner back into position. Going slowly and using minimal adhesive is key. Alternatively, professional third-party repair services exist that can expertly reconstruct severely damaged corners.

Proper storage is important after any repair work. Sleeves, toploaders and binders/pages provide protection from future bending or abrasion. Storing in a cool, dry area away from direct sunlight also helps prevent further deterioration over time. With patience and care, nearly any baseball card corner damage can be successfully repaired. Taking your time and using the gentlest methods possible will give the best, longest-lasting results.

ARE ANY BASEBALL CARDS FROM THE 70s VALUABLE

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The 1970s were a huge decade for baseball card collecting. Many iconic baseball stars were playing during this era such as Pete Rose, Nolan Ryan, Johnny Bench, and Reggie Jackson. While most common baseball cards from the 1970s have little monetary value today, there are certainly some that could be worth a significant amount of money depending on the player, the year, the condition of the card, and other factors. Here is a more in-depth look at 1970s baseball cards and which ones tend to be the most valuable:

One of the most valuable cards from the 1970s is the 1975 Nolan Ryan rookie card. Ryan went on to have one of the greatest pitching careers in MLB history and his rookie card is one of the most iconic and sought after from the entire 1970s decade. In near mint to mint condition, the 1975 Nolan Ryan rookie card can sell for thousands of dollars. A PSA graded mint 9 copy recently sold for over $15,000. Even in well-worn excellent condition, it still holds value of a few hundred dollars. The rarity and significance of this card to baseball history makes it highly valuable even today.

Another top card from the 1970s is the 1972 O-Pee-Chee Gale Sayers/Buddy Young error card. Only a small number of these cards were accidentally printed pairing the football player Gale Sayers with a baseball player Buddy Young on the front. In high grades, this error card has sold for well over $10,000. Its scarcity and error nature fascinate card collectors. Similarly, any other printing errors or anomalies from the 1970s sets have a good chance of significant value depending on how rare they are.

Rookie cards of future Hall of Famers from the 1970s also tend to be worth a nice premium. Examples include the 1975 George Brett rookie (worth $500+ in good condition), the 1979 Cal Ripken Jr. rookie (over $300), and the 1972 Reggie Jackson rookie (over $150). These players went on to careers of the highest caliber so collectors pursue their early cards. In higher grades like PSA 8 or 9, their rookie cards can sell for thousands based on the player and condition.

Cards of baseball’s biggest stars from the 1970’s hold value as well. The 1973 Hank Aaron ($150+), 1972 Johnny Bench ($75+), 1971 Nolan Ryan ($50+), and several of the 1970s era Pete Rose cards ($50+) typically sell for substantial amounts in nice condition. Demand remains high for cards featuring the all-time greats, especially in later stages of their stellar careers. Copies in top grades have a good chance at four figure prices.

Rookie cards for other Hall of Famers like Mike Schmidt (1974), Don Sutton (1968), Rich Gossage (1970), and Carlton Fisk (1970) also sell quite respectfully based in condition. So does an near-mint 1976 Fred Lynn rookie after his amazing rookie season ($200+). There is strong collector interest in the early career RC’s of these baseball legends that help drive values higher over time.

Beyond individual star power, the condition and grade of the card is extremely important in determining value. A small difference in centering, corners or surface can change a card’s worth substantially. High grade cards in the PSA 8 to PSA 10 range are the golden tickets. Anything lower, like PSA 5 to PSA 7 range, loses value quickly. It’s essential to have valuable 1970s cards properly authenticated and graded to get full worth in today’s strict market.

While most 1970s baseball cards have only nominal value, there are certainly some gems from the era that can sell for hundreds or even thousands of dollars. The right rookie card, error card, or star player from the time in pristine condition has strong chances of profitability for collectors and investors decades later. Knowing the high value cards of that time period is key when going through 1970s card collections. With increased popularity of the hobby and memorabilia markets, prices for the truly rare and coveted 1970s issues should only continue rising over time as well.

So in summary – yes, there are definitely baseball cards produced during the 1970s decade that hold significant value today, especially in top grade. While condition is paramount, cards featuring rookie seasons of all-time greats or early stars like Nolan Ryan, George Brett, and Cal Ripken Jr. seem to retain collector demand most fervently. But scarce error and anomaly cards along with iconic veterans from the era can gain substantial worth too. For serious collectors and investors, unearthing a high quality 1970sRC or starring player card can result in finding a tremendous hidden treasure.

WHERE CAN I SELL MY BASEBALL CARDS

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Online Marketplaces:

eBay – eBay is one of the largest and most well known online marketplaces. Baseball cards sell very well on eBay since there is a huge collector base actively looking on the site. To sell on eBay, you will need to take photos of each card, write detailed listings including card condition, year, team, etc. You can sell cards individually, in lots, or your entire collection at once. Shipping is extra so make sure to account for that in your pricing. eBay takes a 10% final value fee from sellers.

Sportlots – Sportlots is specifically tailored towards trading cards and is very popular with baseball card collectors. They have a large buyer base and can help you get top dollar for rare and valuable cards. Like eBay, you will need to photograph and write descriptions for each card or lot. Sportlots takes a similar 10-12% fee for completed sales. They also offer free expert grading verification to validate a card’s condition.

COMC (Cardboard Connection) – COMC has a large active marketplace for collectors. The big advantage over individual listings is you can send your entire collection to them. They will then photograph and list each item, storing your cards safely until sold. COMC takes a larger cut at 17.9% plus $0.49 per card for listing and order fulfillment. But it saves you a huge amount of time over individually listing hundreds of cards.

Local Sale Options:

Local card shops – Calling up or visiting local card shops is an option to get cash quickly rather than waiting for online sales. Shops need to make a profit though so will likely offer you 50-70% of estimated eBay values. It’s best to get quotes from multiple shops to get the best rate.

Sports card conventions/shows – There are frequently sports collectibles conventions held on weekends where many vendors set up tables. These are opportunities to display and negotiate sales of your cards in person. You’ll need to transport your collection safely and have a means to accept payments at the show. This is more work than online but cards may sell faster.

Consignment Sales:

Online consignment stores – Sites like Collectors Universe allow you to send your cards to them. They will handle photography, grading if needed, and listing cards for sale with their retailer network getting you the highest prices. Their cuts range from 15-30% depending on services used, but you let them do all the work.

Local card shops consignment – Inquire if your local shop allows you to leave cards there on consignment for them to sell over time. Shops typically take 30-50% commission if a card sells, but you won’t have to list anything yourself. Shops vet buyers so risk of unpaid sales is lower.

Facebook Groups and Forums:

Search for private trading card Facebook groups focused on your sport, team or player. Some have hundreds of active buyers & sellers. You’ll need to photograph and list your items for sale, and handle payments/shipping yourself if they sell. It takes more effort than a dedicated marketplace.

No matter where you sell, make sure to do research on current market prices, professionally photograph your cards front/back, accurately describe condition/details, package securely, and only accept secure payment methods. Building a seller rating and reputation takes time, so provide excellent buyer communication. With some work, your baseball card collection could earn you thousands depending on what hidden gems you may have. Let me know if any part of this answer needs further explanation.